Costa Rica is flanked by two oceans; drive quick enough, get lucky with traffic and weather and you can visit both in a day. Not stopping to look at any of the hundreds of bird species in between would be an incredible birding shame but, if you were so marine inclined, you could do it.
Or, you could do better at managing your birding time and go seawatching! Sure, in Costa Rica, you could certainly seawatch on both coasts. You might not see much but there’s always a certain degree of therapeutic benefits associated with oggling the waves. The funny thing about seawatching is that although you can technically watch for birds on any coast, not all coasts have the birds, at least not near shore, or in enough numbers to breach birding appeal.
Take Costa Rica for example, we’ve got many wonderful spots to watch those tropical waves but few of them really bring the birds. Yeah, no matter where you look, you’ll probably see something with feathers but, more variety calls for strategic spots at strategic times (just like any seawatching hotspot).
One of the best spots for seawatching in Costa Rica is an old port city situated on a narrow peninsula that points into the Gulf of Nicoya, just about where the inner and outer parts of the gulf meet. It’s a sort of a tropical headland at a joining of waters and an estuary replete with sand bars. Now if those sand bars were closer Puntarenas would be a major shorebird watching hotspot. Alas, the birds are a bit too far to properly observe them but, the port is still good for scanning the water, for getting in some good old fashioned seawatching.
Knowing that Least Terns should still be moving through and, dearly wanting to see some of those dainty birds as they make their annual journey south, yesterday, we paid a morning visit to the Puntarenas lighthouse. The drive to the coast was slowed a bit by truck traffic but we still got there by 7 a.m., still early enough to catch some of the morning seabird action.
These are some highlights and thoughts from this birding sojourn.
Take a closer look
Upon arrival, I looked at the water and saw nary a Royal Tern. Those birds are a given, not seeing them did not bode well. “At least there was the ocean” I thought, “maybe something will fly by or I’ll see a fish”.
After exiting the car and briefly conversing with the car watcher guy (aka “watcheemon”) to yes, assure that I as aware he was watching over my vehicle, despite my low bar hopes, I set up the scope and started scanning with binos. Lo and behold, the birds were there, they were just mostly horizon birds, mostly things flying way out there over distant water.
But there were a lot, they looked like innumerable gnats on the horizon.
The ferry would have been pretty darn good
Upon seeing that lots of birds were out there, I realized it would have been a good day to take the ferry. Why hadn’t I thought of that? That’s right, it was because we would have had to leave the house by 3 and weren’t too keen on going back and forth across the gulf. But, if only we had!
The birds were out there and some. It looked promising and was more or less the same time of year when I had my best birding ferry ride some years ago.
Least Terns
It didn’t take long before a few Least Terns flew by; tiny terns with quick wingbeats, all in dapper white winter plumage brushed with bits of black. Throughout my 90 minutes of seawatching, small groups flew past and foraged by the distant sand bar. Even at a distance, it was easy to pick out their distinctive, repetitive quick dive foraging.
I put down 50 for the list but there was probably more. It was fun to compare them with the most abundant bird on the scene, another small tern often found in the Gulf of Nicoya. It’s a bird that nests in northern marshes, one that brings back visions of smart-looking birds hovering and swooping over the Tonawanda wetlands.
Clouds of Black Terns
Like I was saying, the Black Tern was the big bird on the scene, the one that ruled my seawatching day. Small numbers constantly flew past, most fairly far off shore. The largest numbers were way out there, clouds of them. In one such cloud, at a wavery 60 X magnification, as much as I tried to pick out another species, all I could see was a massive Brown Pelican plowing through the Black Tern ranks to feast on the same unseen sardine banquet.
A few other groups foraged a bit closer and in better light and those were the ones to focus on. Those were the flocks that would have been exciting to watch from the ferry deck. Although such flocks can be solely composed of Black Terns, they are also the situations that attract other, less common species, including the ones mentioned below.
I should also mention putting down 1,000 Black Terns on my eBird list. That was a pretty conservative estimate, there were probably a lot more.
A few distant pelagic birds
Fortunately, the scanning paid off, the seawatching revealed some of the seabird bounty from the Gulf of Nicoya. Try as I did to pick up a storm-petrel or two, no luck there. However, staring at the Black Terns and carefully panning the waves did turn up a couple Bridled Terns (!). The distant looks ruled out divining their age but that’s alright, I’m fine with ageless Bridled Terns, smiling with picking out larger, longer winged, gray backed terns that sliced through the tern flocks.
I was also alright with a Brown Noddy doing the same; a larger, dark brown bird foraging with the smaller migrants from the north. The third pelagic bird species was hardly a glimpse but I couldn’t unsee it, couldn’t deny noticing the fluttering flight and banking of another regular in these estuarine waters; a Galapagos Shearwater.
It was less than a second but it was enough to know I saw it. I bet more were out there and who knows what else? I hadn’t picked up any Sabine’s or phalaropes or jaegers but those are moving through too, might have been some visible from the ferry.
No ferry for me but the seawatching was still good, still therapeutic and highlighted with a jumping stingray and a pair of surfacing Bottlenose Dolphins. It was good stuff, I am grateful.
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