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A Morning of Dry Forest Birding, June 8, 2024

Dry forest is one of Costa Rica’s major ecosystems. Occurring on the Pacific slope from Nicaragua to the river at Tarcoles (the Rio Grande), this tropical forest provides habitat for a bunch of birds.

Fancy birds too. Black-headed Trogons, White-throated Magpie-Jays, Yellow-naped Parrots, Orange-fronted Parakeets, Lesser Ground-Cuckoos and some!

Lesser Ground-Cuckoo poses form the camera.

Lucky for the birds and us people who watch them, most of the dry forest birds in Costa Rica are rather tolerant of habitat loss. Given the near absence of extant old growth tropical dry forest on much of the Pacific slope, that’s a darn good thing!

The birds persist in forest patches, living fig hedgerows, vital riparian zones, and pastures dotted with big trees. They are also increasing in various areas of second growth; some of that famous reforestation going on in Costa Rica.

Not pseudo reforestation of Teak and other commercial trees either but honest to goodness forest doing its best to make a natural comeback. The growing areas don’t have it easy. They lack the full suite of original pollinators, seed spreaders, and who knows what else but a forest’s gonna keep on trying, keep on growing. There’s some damn ignorant burning too but if we can get a handle on it, we might give those dry forests a chance.

The biggest and oldest areas of dry forest in Costa Rica are in and near Santa Rosa National Park. Go there to see the real, long-term deal. However, if you can’t make it up to Liberia way, you can still see lots of birds in other places.

Some of the closest tropical dry forest habitats near San Jose’s concrete and cars are sites between Orotina and Tarcoles. I was there the other day. It was just for a morning but the birding was worthwhile as always.

Not So Dry

Bird those dry spots in the winter months and you’ll be dealing with dusty winds. The grass is brown, trees have dropped their leaves and it’s one sunny day after another.

June is another story. Lush green grass, trees heavy with foliage, and storm clouds rolling in. Life is rejoicing with the rains, growing and breeding and naturally living it up.

Singing Birds

Some of that joy is expressed with bird song. Drive or bike or walk by fresh green dry forest trees and vireos will be singing. They sound sort of like Red-eyeds but their phrasing is shorter. Get a look and you’ll see a heftier beak for bigger caterpillars and more yellowish underparts for their basic name- Yellow-green Vireo.

There’s lots of them vireos in Costa Rica but almost only in the wet season, and mostly on the Pacific slope. They sing from the trees, Banded Wrens belt out bird tunes from the thick below, and Yellow-olive Flycatchers (Flatbills) give hearing tests for high-frequency sounds.

Black-headed Trogons make staccato beats, Gartered Trogons also call, and Rufous-naped Wrens make you think of babblers on the other side of the world (at least they do that for me).

Some Nice Spots with Regenerating Forest

Out on those low and hot country roads, I was happy to see some places where forest was rallying for its natural and leisurely relentless comeback. I saw reason to cheer the trees on and wish them well, especially on the Guacimo Road.

This is a road that leaves the coastal highway and makes its way towards the sea. It goes for a ways and you can make a nice birding loop that reaches mangroves and the beach itself at Guacalillo. There’s also a riparian zone replete with towering cashew trees; a perfect haunt for Spectacled Owls.

It’s one of the many sites covered in my bird finding ebook for Costa Rica, a good place to play hide and seek with Mangrove Cuckoos, call for Crested Bobwhites, and watch for soaring raptors.

A Morning for Kites

Speaking of raptors, this birding route is typically good for em! You never know what will show but there’s lots of possibilities. The birding chances include species like Collared Forest-Falcon, Laughing Falcon, Crane Hawk, and others, even the occasional King Vulture.

I had those birds in mind the other morning but they failed to report to the outdoor office. Didn’t see Short-tailed Hawk either! However, at least they were substituted by some other taloned birds.

Grays Hawks were present as they usually are, we saw both caracaras, and had distant views of Harriss’s Hawks. It was also a good morning for kites. As the vultures took to the skies, sure enough, a non-vulture was thermaling with them, a bird with rufous patches on pointed wings.

That was the only Plumbeous Kite we saw but it was a nice look in good light. A dark Hook-billed Kite was also soaring around and showing its distinctive paddle-winged shape.

Those were good but if I had to pick a prize, I would have given it to another birds that hunts lizards in those open fields; the svelte little Pearl Kite. I was pleased because this species can be a real challenge. In Costa Rica, they seem to occur in low numbers at low density populations. Factor in their small size and Pearl Kites are all too easy to overlook.

A closer Pearl Kite from another day.

One perched on a cable high over open fields was one of the morning’s top treasures.

I’ve birded that area many times but I would love to explore it more, especially at night. There’s always more to see, especially when birding in Costa Rica.

Check out an eBird trip report from that fine morning of birding-

June 8, 2024 dry forest near Tarcoles – eBird Trip Report

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bird finding in Costa Rica Birding Costa Rica dry forest Pacific slope

Birding around Carara, Costa Rica- Always Exciting, Always Excellent

The first time I visited Carara National Park was in 1992. I went by bus with a few friends, one of whom was also a birder. We stayed in the hot coastal village of Tarcoles and made the long, even hotter walk to the national park. There was good birding on the way and on the short trails that left from the HQ; a small building at the southern edge of the park. There were lots of birds; trogons, various flycatchers, antbirds, manakins and many other classic species of lowland rainforest. Fast forward to the present and there are more places to stay, better knowledge of where to find birds around this hotspot, and although populations of humid forest species have declined in response to a drier climate, the birding continues to be exciting and excellent.

One of the new trails at Carara- expect great birding here!

I was reminded of the world-class birding during a recent day of guiding in and around Carara. This is a bit of how that long good day of birding went:

Dry forest habitats along the Guacalillo Road

A good road rather near Carara, it’s probably the closest spot to connect with all possible species of dry forest habitats. Since the national park didn’t open until eight, we began the birding on this route. The birding is typically sweet along this road and Saturday was no exception. We were entertained and kept buy by:

Multiple Turquoise-browed Motmots perched on wires, handsome Stripe-headed Sparrows chattering from the roadside, and seeing numerous other common edge species.

Turquoise-browed Motmot- always impressive.

-Of note was the calling activity of Crested Bobwhites. We always had at least one within earshot and had excellent looks at the first one encountered.

-Although Lesser Ground-Cuckoo was quiet, we eventually got looks at one.

-Nice looks at Scarlet Macaw, Red-lored, Yellow-naped, and White-fronted Parrots.

This beautiful bird is the most numerous parrot species in dry Pacific coast habitats.

White-throated Magpie Jay, Double-striped Thick-Knee, and other dry forest species.

Carara National Park

After nearly two hours of constant great birding, it was time to extend the awesomeness to another completely different habitat, the lowland rainforests of Carara National Park. Although the mosquitoes were pretty bad, highlights there included:

-A close, singing male Ruddy Quail-Dove, views of Streak-chested Antpitta, and even closer prolonged looks at Marbled Wood-Quail.

-Army Ant swarm with several Gray-headed Tanagers, Black-faced Antthrush, Chestnut-backed and Bicolored Antbird, Tawny-winged and Northern Barred Woodcreepers, and Chiriqui Foliage-gleaner.

Chiriqui Foliage-gleaner was split from Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner.

Royal Flycatcher, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, White-whiskered Puffbird, Blue-crowned Manakin, views of Slaty-tailed and Baird’s Trogons, and other nice rainforest species. Oh, and a soaring adult King Vulture right from the parking area.

The Tarcoles area

A post-lunch stop, the edge habitats and seasonal wetlands around Tarcoles turned up a few nice bird species, the best being a sweet roosting Black-and-white Owl (thanks to gen from a local farmer!), Northern Scrub-Flycatcher, Lineated Woodpecker, and Black-headed and Gartered Trogons.

Black-headed Trogon is one of the easiest trogons to see in Costa Rica.

Cerro Lodge Road

Leaving this birdy site for last, we had some of the same species as the morning but also saw our target Crane Hawk, Plumbeous Kite, Nutting’s Flycatcher, and some other new birds before the rains convinced us to call it a day.

Crane Hawk- an uncommon raptor.

After tallying the results, including birds that were heard only, we had a list of more than 140 species. Incredibly, around Carara, that’s pretty much par for the course (!). However, considering that the birding takes place in three or four distinct biodiverse tropical habitats, a consistent high total is also perhaps unsurprising. As always, I wonder what I will find the next time I visit the Carara area? Birding there is best done over the course of two or three days but if you can only manage one, that single exciting day of birding is still worth the trip.